Sunday, August 19, 2012

My Almost Daily Power Protein Breakfast

Loaded with nutrition, fired up with taste, this is the most delicious breakfast for starting up the day. Guaranteed you won't feel hungry for hours afterwards while you experience a beautiful energy boost that lasts!

Pumpkin Seeds
Bee Pollen - 1 tsp
Flaxseed oil - 1 tsp
Raw chocolate nibs
Stevia or honey to taste

Put your desired amount of quinoa in a small pot and cover with filtered water, about an inch and a half above the grains. If you're a committed measurer, it will be about 2 water to 1 quinoa.

Cover and simmer until the water is absorbed, which usually will take less time than rice.

Place in your favorite bowl and let cool, as heat destroys the powers of the pollen and flaxseed oil.

Once ready, add the above ingredients, mix, and enjoy!

Friday, June 29, 2012

Guest Blogger: Polly Mertens on Healing from Bulimia

Appreciation – Create a Shift in Your Life
Self-love is one of the keys to lasting eating disorder recovery in my opinion.   Yet I’ve come to realize recently that it is the feeling of appreciation (of anything, not just ourselves) that creates a shift in our lives.  When we appreciate something we align with that which we are.  We align with our highest Self, God, the Source within us.
I went on a spiritual quest years ago and spent a long time in nature just learning the feeling of appreciation.  I tapped into the feeling of love that Source is.  I learned that our true nature is love.  Love is at the core of who we are.  Each and every person, every animal, every plant or species is at its essence love.  Love it what binds us and love is Source.
When we are focusing our attention and feeling the feeling of appreciation we are feeling love.  We are being loving and our Source energy is love so we become aligned with who we innately are. If you want to overcome bulimia there are many tools and resources to help you break your habits of abuse, but I believe it is when we finally learn to love and be loving that we really find lasting eating disorder recovery.
When I talk to women who are struggling with regaining their strength after years of binging and purging, just the mere act of stopping the cycle is a major breakthrough.  I realize that when you’re “in it” with your eating disorder it’s too much of a stretch to ask you to love yourself right then.  Self-love is pretty much the furthest thing from having an eating disorder.  After all, if you loved yourself why would you abuse your body, mind and spirit this way?  You wouldn’t.
I’d now like to offer than instead of trying to move up the emotional scale to self-love right out the gate after starting recovery that you instead take it gradually.  I have an idea that I hope will help you move your needle from self-hatred and self-loathing towards self-love more rapidly and with grace and ease.
Start by loving and appreciating things that are easier to appreciate (than yourself).  Start by loving things like babies, kittens, flowers and sunsets.  When you can focus your attention on something for as little as 17 seconds you activate a vibration within you that law of attraction will respond to and bring more thoughts like it to you.  When you have the vibration of appreciation active within you, you’ll begin to attract more things to appreciate.  The momentum will begin to create a shift in your life that will allow more things to appreciate into your life.
When you’re appreciating the things around you, in time you can turn your love towards yourself. If you spend a few days or a few weeks practicing appreciating the things in your day-to-day life you’ll have practiced the vibration and alignment with Source.  That feeling will be activated within you and with practice it will feel like your new normal.  Your new normal way of feeling will be loving. So when you activate or think thoughts about yourself it will be easier to be loving instead of hateful.
Negative self-talk can be so crippling when you’re trying to beat bulimia.  Overcoming your eating disorder I believe requires you to activate a new vibration.  A new pattern of thought within you that’s aligned with a higher vibration, a loving vibration instead of a negative, harmful vibration.  The way we feel is just our practiced vibration or focused thoughts.  If we can actively focus on loving the thing around us I think we can create a shift in our life that will make it easier each day to appreciate our Self.
How to feel appreciation
It’s the little thoughts, the little moments that if we recognize them and milk them for what they are – opportunities to feel love – we can find so many reasons to appreciate the world around us.  This is why I’ve often recommended a gratitude journal.  If you were to sit in bed at night before going to sleep and write in your journal five things you’re grateful for, you would spend at least the 17 seconds it takes to activate law of attraction and you’d put yourself in a positive vibration just before going to sleep.
To take it a step further, I encourage you to spend time in every day looking for things to appreciate.  For example:
  • I love this beautiful morning.
  • I love my husband…my children…my friend…my friends.
  • I love my home…my car…my clothes.
  • It feels so good talking with my best friend…
  • This food tastes so good.
  • I love writing….dancing…going to the beach…knitting…painting.
  • I love my dog….my cat…my bird….my horse.
Finding things that make us feel good and holding them as the object of our attention will activate pure positive vibration of love and align us with Source.  Focus on the things that are easiest to appreciate first.  Then turning your attention on yourself will be easier.  Have fun with it.
If you are struggling with an eating disorder I would encourage you to check out my blog, Inspiring Bulimia Recovery.  This blog is one of the best resources for support and self help methods to help you recover from an eating disorder. Find real bulimia stories, videos and blog posts all aimed at assisting you on your road to recovery. Discover where you can find additional support to enhance the tools we provide you with.  This blog is more specifically aimed at bulimia recovery but is applicable to all other eating disorders.
Appreciation from Abraham
I would like to conclude with this uplifting video.  The feeling of gratitude is palpable in this video.  Just listening to this exchange between Abraham and a guest your vibration is uplifted.  I listened to this a few times and it brought me to tears when I focused on the feeling of appreciation.  The benefit to you and the world by your vibration is worth the effort.

From Guest Blogger, Polly Mertens:

Monday, February 27, 2012


Practitioners of Traditional Chinese Medicine and other ancient healing practices have always used food as one of the ways to balance the body to help prevent and treat disease.  With the understanding that every type of food contains its own characteristics, these wise healers know that the energy contained in what we eat is not just a matter of calories, carbohydrates, fats, and protein, but also has to do with temperature.

Temperature and Health Conditions
Traditional Chinese Medicine doctors also look at temperature as it relates to health conditions.  In allopathic medicine, we rarely think of a physical problem having hot or cold properties, but in Oriental health practices, the body is considered in terms of these qualities depending on the condition.  In this way, specific foods are proscribed to help with the healing process.

Often by instinct we will eat warmer foods in the wintertime and cooler in the summertime, which is our body’s way of helping us to stay in balance.

Warming Foods
Warming foods are yang, which the Chinese represent as the warm, sunny side of a mountain.  They tend to be drying and help to raise the energy of the body by improving circulation and bring heat to the organs, blood, and cells.  The need for warm food is often signaled by these conditions:
·      Cold hands and feet
·      Cold body
·      Diarrhea
·      Stomach pain
·      Bloating
·      Discomfort after eating or drinking cold foods and beverages
·      Sore joints
·      Fluid retention
·      Lack of energy

Warm foods are generally those that take a longer time to grow.  Incorporating them into the diet can help balance the body if you have any of the above symptoms.  Here is a partial list of warming foods:

Cabbage, kale, mustard greens, onions, garlic, winter squash, pumpkin, parsnip, leek, chives, scallions,

Cherries, nectarines, coconut, avocado, cooked or dried fruits

Oats, nuts, seeds

Butter, soybean oil

Most meats, including chicken and lamb


Cayenne pepper, cinnamon, cloves, dry ginger, basil, rosemary

Cooling Foods
Cooling foods are yin, which are damp and represented by the shady, cooler side of the mountain.  These foods help to clear way heat and toxins, calming the blood and moistening the body.  The need for cooling foods is often signaled by these conditions:
·      Hot body
·      Thirst
·      Constipation
·      Strong smelling stool
·      Burning anus after bowl movements
·      Dark yellow urine
·      Heartburn
·      Anxiety
·      Red eyes and face
·      Overly emotional
·      Rapid pulse
·      Headaches
·      Ulcers in the mouth or on the tongue
·      Cold sores
·      Red tongue with yellow coating

Cooling foods generally take less time to grow.  A short list of some of these foods includes:

Lettuce, celery, radish, cucumber, summer squash, broccoli, tomatoes, most leafy veggies, mushrooms, eggplant

Seaweed and seafood

Bananas, pears, oranges, apples, kiwi, watermelon

Millet, amaranth, barley, wheat

Northern, navy, kidney, lima, and mung beans soaked in water 12 hours before cooking

Sprouted grains and legumes

Tofu, egg whites, yogurt

Fresh ginger, mint, marjoram, cilantro, lemon balm,  white peppercorns

Herbal teas, vegetable broths, fruit and vegetable juices

Balanced Foods
Some foods contain naturally balanced thermal qualities.  These include:
·      Root vegetables
·      Black mushrooms
·      Peanuts
·      Olives
·      Lemons
·      Grapes
·      Plums
·      Sunflower seeds

The Color of Food
The color of food can also help you determine its temperature. Green, blue, and purple fruits and vegetables tend to be more cooling than those that are red, orange, or yellow. In this way, a green apple or pepper will be more cooling than one that is red.

The Preparation of Food
How you prepare your food also affects how warming or cooling it will be for the body.  Lightly and quickly cooked foods are more cooling.  Long and slow cooking makes food warmer. 

And now… continue your research…
Understanding the principles of warm and cool foods and the properties of yin and yang is an in-depth study that I can only touch upon here.  My goal is to ignite your interest so that you do your own research into the healing benefits of  balancing your diet with cooling and warming foods.  What better way to expand and balance your approach to well being! 

Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Integrative Medicine: Allopathy and Homeopathy Hand in Hand

The body in form….
I always thought I had a body in perfect form… in top quality, high performance, never-get-seriously sick form.  As a dancer whose been dancing all of my life, this body has almost always been in shape (even when I gained 15 pounds living high on pasta and vino in Italy) and has always been toned, stretched, strong, and reliable.

An uninvited guest…
That is, until about two weeks ago when I found out that the digestive blockage I was trying to resolve with homeopathic medicine and diet was nothing less than an uninvited guest lodged in my sigmoid colon, otherwise known as a tumor!

I’ve got it covered…
I know I write all about natural protocols for keeping healthy.  It’s my pride and joy that I never have had to go to an allopathic doctor in my adult life to resolve a physical problem.  I have lists of my favorite alternative doctors in whichever city I happen to be living in.  Here it’s my Taiwanese traditional Chinese medicine specialist, my Korean electro-acupuncturist, my Argentine muscle-worker, my miracle-working Floridian chiropractor, and my brilliant Russian homoeopathist (ex-allopathic doctor to the astronauts in St. Petersburg.)  I’m always covered and always sure that at least one of them will find a solution to a torn ligament, misaligned spine, digestive problem, and the like.

Or do I?
Well, we are speaking of a digestive problem here.  One that started a little bit less than a year ago.  My usually perfectly functioning system began to perplex me.  Elimination was a problem.  I went for colonics, but my natural ability to cleanse wasn’t up to par, to say the least.  I was staying thin, had my usual resources of energy, but month by month the problem was not resolving.

The rebel…
I finally went to a specialist who advised me to have a colonoscopy.  I rebelled.  Me?  A colonoscopy?  That’s for grannies who don’t know how to use diet and natural protocols.  More months went by.  Now less and less was happening and I wondered, where is it going?  I look the same.  Shouldn’t I be getting bloated, puffy, fat?  I thought I had parasites.  Perfectly treatable with natural formulae.

But nothing was changing and finally I relented and went for tests. 

Giving in…
I had the colonoscopy and then a cat scan and the long and the short of it was that I had a blockage the size of a tennis ball that was taking up 80% of the space in my intestine and I’d better get me to surgery fast before it became an emergency!

I changed my diet to the bland foods I always avoid – white rice, white flour, eggs - with no fruits, veggies, or whole grains in sight.  I went for the surgery. 

Revelatory and humbling note…
Had I had the colonoscopy months ago, the tumor would have been in mini form and easily extractable during the colonoscopy itself.

It’s been a week and I’m at home recuperating.  No exercise for at least a month, which means my assistant teaches my dance classes and I hear all the news.  No lifting (darn, really wanted that cement hauling job), and serious rehearsals for when I’m 104 years old, meaning I’ve got shuffling down to a science.  I’m supposed to walk as much as I can to keep the intestines supple, which I do around the house until fifteen minutes later its time for a nap.  Mostly I’m sleeping, reading, listening to music, and feeling the humanness of my body.

In the normal flow…
Eating whole foods is essential.  Cleansing the body on a regular basis is essential.  I recently read Alejandro Junger’s book, Clean, and believe that his protocols are key for a healthy life.  Being mindful by getting enough rest, avoiding stress, and doing what you love is paramount.  But even with all of this, we are vulnerable creatures, human, with bodies that sometimes tell us to stop, to notice, and to listen.

Using the homeopathic and allopathic…
I completely adhere to integrative medicine, which combines homeopathic with allopathic protocols.  There are times when one is more effective than the other. 

Back from the hospital, I was given no medication other than the advice to take ibuprophin if I needed to.  I haven’t needed to.  I’m on a homeopathic formula given to me by my Russian doctor that has arnica and other healing extracts to get me back to form.  I’m back to eating whole grains, veggies, and fruits; drinking tons of water and lots of organic herbal teas.  But now I’m going to also get my annual allopathic check-ups, my blood tests, and my periodic colonoscopies. 

The lesson…
My lesson in all of this ~ to be wise.  To respect all types of medical science.  Not to self-diagnose.  To be faster in reacting to a problem.  Not to assume that I’m invulnerable.  To understand what it means to LOVE myself in a deeper way by listening and investigating all avenues for health.  To not be afraid.  To trust.  To know that LOVE attracts LOVE and that loving doctors will appear, as they have for me in this experience, even though they came from that dreaded allopathic place!  Everything has its place.

Please take a look at The Body In Form store to find hand-picked items for easy purchase online such as:  vitamins, herbs, beauty products, and self-help, health, and recipe books that encourage you to have a body - and life - in form!

Friday, February 3, 2012

Healing from Eating Disorders Naturally, by Polly Mertens

My name is Polly Mertens and I’m honored to share my life’s wisdom as a guest author The Body In Form.

I recovered from bulimia after 20 years of living with this compulsive overeating disorder. I have come to realize that recovery is not just about changing the way you behave, but also changing the way you think, feel and perceive.  It is my experience that successful treatments for an eating disorder include inner healing and work to connect the addict to their higher self, God, the universe or whatever you choose to call it.

Eating disorders refer to a collection of conditions characterized by abnormal eating habits that may involve either insufficient or excessive food intake. These disorders can be very harmful to an individual’s mental and physical health.  The most common types of eating disorders in the United States are bulimia nervosa, anorexia nervosa and binge eating disorder. Although primarily thought to affect females, eating disorders affect males as well. The number of eating disorders is increasing all over the world, especially within the United States.

More specifically bulimia nervosa is an eating disorder characterized by binge eating and purging or consuming a large amount of food in a short amount of time. This is followed by an attempt to rid oneself of the food consumed, usually by purging, using laxatives, or excessive exercising.

Treatments for an eating disorder frequently involve more than just stopping the obviously harmful or dysfunctional behaviors of compulsive overeating and purging.  Just as the condition of bulimia is not just about food, recovery must involve more than merely stabilizing your eating patterns. Often eating disorder treatment programs include inner healing with the help of a spiritual connection – with any higher power you may believe in.

Being spiritual is different from being religious. In fact, spirituality is not necessarily about the divine or otherworldly. It can simply mean a better understanding of yourself and a better ability to look within and like what you see.  Most people suffering from an eating disorder have developed a distorted opinion of themselves, their bodies and lack a healthy self-esteem or a feeling of self worth.  Valuing themselves, and ultimately loving themselves unconditionally, is what makes for a more conscious, more complete, and more lasting recovery from an eating disorder. A spiritual healing is a complete, holistic healing.  Healing the body, the mind, and the spirit.  Spiritual practices as part of your treatments for bulimia can take many different forms.

Yoga and Meditation
Some people perform yoga and meditation separately; for others each is inextricably linked to the other. Yoga consists of gentle, but precise and conscious, movements of the body into various positions (asanas) for therapeutic purposes. Meditation is a practice that involves the concentration and the focusing of all inner energies into the here and now.

Ancient Indian sages practiced both yoga and meditation to attain the kind of control over their bodies and minds that allowed them to suspend breathing, go without sustenance for long periods, be impervious to extreme temperatures and more. It’s a testament to the power of the mind!

Using yoga and meditation can be powerful weapons in your fight against an eating disorder, because they can help you to effectively control your mind, defeating negative thoughts and behaviors and fostering healthier ones. They also teach you to look within without apprehension and to love what you find there. Try either approach, or both if you prefer. You will find them to be effective tools in an eating disorder recovery.

Connect with a Higher Power
For many of us, the ultimate solace is communing with the higher being that some of us call God. The roads that we take to reach that spiritual place can be many.  You may read the Bible or other religious texts, attend a service in church, synagogue or mosque, pray, or you may simply sit in a quiet place and reflect.  However you choose, it is the one-on-one time we allow ourselves to individually connect with our higher power, our higher selves, our inner being.

We all need some help from time to time. We become stressed, tense; feel overwhelmed and unable to cope. At these times, you may find that you are able to draw the required energy from the universe, or that you find the solace in a divine being.  It doesn’t matter how you find that help, so long as you do connect to that meaningful, spiritual place within you.

There are good reasons that a higher power plays an important role in any twelve-step recovery program.  Acknowledging a source bigger than yourself can help you find comfort and support in the midst of a bulimia recovery.

Connecting with nature
One of the coping mechanisms that I developed when undergoing my treatments for bulimia was to go hiking in nature.  This was a physical release of energy and stress. At the same time, I found that communing with nature brought solace and peace to my soul.  I connected better with the universe alone on a hike than sitting in meditation.

It is important to find your own spiritual practice.  Choose something that gives you strength while you focus on overcoming bulimia. Finding a spiritual connection helps with inner healing, releasing addiction, and teaches you to love yourself again.

If you are struggling with an eating disorder I would encourage you to check out my website, Get Busy Thriving.  This website is one of the best resources for support and self help methods to help you recover from an eating disorder. Find real bulimia stories, videos and blog posts all aimed at assisting you on your road to recovery. Discover where you can find additional support to enhance the tools we provide you with.  This site is more specifically aimed at bulimia recovery but is applicable to all other eating disorders.

Please take a look at The Body In Form store to find hand-picked items for easy purchase online such as:  vitamins, herbs, beauty products, and self-help, health, and recipe books that encourage you to have a body - and life - in form!

Friday, January 20, 2012

The Most Important Portion Control Tips

By guest blogger, Tom Corson-Knowles

Portions, Portions, Portions...

You've heard it before and here it is again; when it comes to nutrition and diet the most important thing (aside from what you are actually eating) is portion control. Even eating only the healthiest foods doesn't work if you aren't eating the right portions. Sure, it's often said that you can never eat too many vegetables, but eating too much of many other foods can help make your middle grow and grow. It isn't difficult to learn portion control and I will tell you how.

Read the Label

The very first step in learning about portions is learning to actually read the labels on the foods that you eat. More importantly, read the serving size on the label. Read it carefully, please. A normal loaf of bread says its serving size is 2 slices, for 140 calories. Look at the difference on some gluten-free bread; 1 slice is a serving at 45 calories. If you pick healthy foods that are low in salt content and sugar content then you really don't need to pay as close attention to calorie count as you would think. Instead, eat healthy and eat the correct serving/portion amounts and you will be on the right track. The USDA gives us a basis with their recommended intake from each food group too. But remember, even vegans and vegetarians eat healthy and get all the nutrients they need without eating meat. So you don't have to eat exactly what the USDA says, that's why it's called a recommendation!

Know Basic Portion Sizes

This is the fun part. Instead of implementing a food scale in your kitchen to weigh out 3 ounces of meat, you can simply memorize this handy little portion size scale.

Pasta and Rice:
A serving size of either of these grains is about the size of a light bulb. These foods are often filling and a full serving can keep you from eating too much of other things, like meat and dairy.

Peanut Butter and Hummus:
These meal additives have a serving size of a gold ball. Peanut butter is a great source of protein, perfect for a lunchtime pick-me-up.

It might be surprising, but an actual serving of cheese is only about the size of 3 dice. It's approximately a quarter of a cup.

A serving of meat is the size of a deck of cards. It is a misconception most people have about meat when the thing the more the better. Protein does help give us energy, but meat is not the only source of protein out there.

Olive Oil or Salad Dressing:
These are things that should always be used sparingly. In fact, a serving is the size of a single poker chip. A little olive oil goes a long way and makes a great salad dressing itself with fresh basil, oregano and garlic added to it.

Breakfast Cereal:
Do you find yourself filling up a big bowl of cereal in the morning only to end up drained by lunch. Start by passing on the sugary cereals and then be sure that you only have enough cereal to equal the size of a tennis ball.

See how simple items from everyday life can measure your portions for you? Now go, and eat healthy!

Tom Corson-Knowles is the founder of Authentic Health Coaching, an international health education company. Get Dr. Corson's Top 5 Nutrition Tips report for free at

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Disconnecting Part II: Ten Days of Bliss in Northern Argentina

Day 1
As a New Yorker living in Buenos Aires, it is often difficult for me to justify going anywhere else but the Apple when I have time off from work.  But for this winter break I decided that I must see more of this country I live in, and so I chose to travel to the North. Traveling alone, I felt that staying in hostals would be a great way to stay social and connected, without obligation.  And so I booked my flight to Salta and my first two nights at the San Jorge Hostel.  Beyond this, I only knew the towns that I wanted to visit: Tilcara, Purmamarca, Humahuaca, and Iruya, deciding to book my stays as I went along.

My 6:30 AM flight from Jorge Newberry Airport was quick and easy.  No check-in as I had only a small backpack and a shoulder bag, traveling lighter than I’ve ever done before.  With a great sense of freedom, no real plans, and a slight anxiety about engaging with others, my goal was to embrace whatever landed in my path, find a deeper connection with nature, meet interesting travelers, connect with the local people, and gain wisdom from the experience. 


Too early to check into the Hostel San Jorge, I drop my bags and headed out to wander.  It is chillingly cold topped off by traffic, clogged sidewalks, pollution, and noise.  I wade through the jetsam to arrive at the Plaza 9 de Julio to see the majestic buildings and the beautiful park, which is the heart of the town.

By 9:30 AM I’m sitting in La Basilica de Salta, a richly depicted pink and white church with an interior of ornate golds and terra cottas.  I then find a café in the sun where I can thaw over tea and medialunas, listening to folk music playing, as it would throughout the whole of my trip.  Slowly my coat opens and the sun enters as the morning’s mountain chill mixes with the coming heat. 

At once a horn conflagration has gathered to play:  military drums, uniforms, a conductor, all very serious and formal.  It’s definitely time to move on.

At the hostel I am to room with two currently absent guys who have obviously claimed the bunk beds. I can’t wait to get out of this overly-bustling town and have scheduled a tour to Cachi for tomorrow. It will be one more night before I take a set of buses to each future stop, with Iruya as my final destination.

In the afternoon I take myself to the neighboring town of San Lorenzo for lunch, which is a half hour ride by bus.  Once arrived, I uncannily find myself appreciating my hometown of Croton-on-Hudson outside of NYC.  Funny how travel sheds light on the things one has taken for granted.  Realizing how magnificent it is living by the Hudson with the proliferation of wildish nature that I so took for granted while growing up.  Often one doesn’t have to travel far to find the exquisite.  That being said, I was looking forward to being astounded here in the north of Argentina, and in this, I would not be disappointed.

After lunch at a local “parilla”, I take a siesta on a bench in the sun, waiting for a friend.  Ramiro arrives to show me around and we end up having tea with another friend whose home is devoted to gardens, a small forest, dogs, chickens, roosters, geese, and a parrot.  Laughing and chatting over tea, already I see how easily accessible the people are here, so far from Buenos Aires.

Back at the San Jorge night falls and I am freezing and don’t feel like venturing into the town center. The room is uninviting and a shower is definitely not going to happen, as there is no heat in the bathrooms. I end up talking to some of the guys around the computer and then shiver myself into bed under a million blankets.  One of my roommates comes in and slips into a lower bunk .  Our final roommate becomes scarce for the night, so it’s just the two of us.  We chat away in the dark.  He is from New Zealand, an incessant traveler who can’t stop the motion, though he’s looking for something concrete.  This theme of the perennial traveler seems common in these parts.  Earlier, speaking with the Greek biker who doesn’t want to stop his life on the road and then the Italian who will take a film course so he can document his travels.  All of these guys are getting themselves off the grid, and all are in love with the warmth of the Latin style.  The sensation of wanting to be free and gravitating towards something more “authentic” is palpable and will be the theme of my trip. 

Day 2

Up at 6:00 and riding Route 33 to Cachi.  The mountains in the morning light are green and wheat colored with soft, rounded peaks.  There is a small river below with overhanging trees that becomes dry as we wind our way up and up now, through folds of mountains.  At time the dry gully moistens to become a tiny rivulet pathway that I’m told can swell a hundredfold in summer.

The “cordones” or cacti, grow up the mountainsides.  With lives up to 100 years old they are often cut down to provide wood for the community.  Wild pigs, goats, and cows graze lopsided on the mountainsides.  Do they have two legs longer and two legs shorter to stay attached?  We pass a small cemetery and see homes dotting the landscape made of stucco and wood.  They are low roofed and seemingly dark inside.   

We are continuously winding up and around as if we’re wrapping ourselves around a giant snail shell.  All is shadow and light with the occasional condor gliding through overhead space.  I will see many throughout this trip, but never will manage to catch one on film.     

The mountains are striated with iron-rich earth alternating with copper-green that are the emblem colors here in the North.  Every few kilometers there are tiny open cement huts with chimneys along the roadside where locals will burn wood to keep warm as they pass the night waiting for a bus to arrive.

Just as I am feeling weak from the spiraling, we stop for refreshment.  I have two cups of coca tea to help me adapt to the altitude, a piece of local bread, and a snappy conversation with Alejandro, who is on holiday from selling solar panels throughout the region.  We spend the good part of the trip chatting and exchanging stories.

We are rising to 3,500 meters high as we approach Cachi with its population of 2,200.  As we ascend, we travel through the Parque National de los Cordones, a natural reserve that is filled with kilometers of cacti in all states of growth and obscure shapes.   This is one of the largest cactus parks in the world and it is both beautiful and bizarre.  I walk alongside huge green fingers pointing upwards, careful not to catch myself on the lethal looking quills.  

Back on the bus we continue to climb until we stop again for dried fruits, herbs, and spices.  I buy a supply of dried apples, freshly ground cumin, oregano, Baila Buena, an herbal tea for energy, and another fragrant herb for aches and pains.  Two young children play flute and drums for the tourists and the locals seem pleased with our purchases.

Though I’m on an excursion bus, I feel the adventure and freedom of this first trip to the mountains and am happy for the comfort of my androgynous clothes and the boots that will hardly every leave my feet until the end of my trip.

Before we get to the town of Cachi, we stop at an open-air restaurant, beautifully set up to receive us.  Though I usually loathe this kind of touring, today I am grateful as my companions are genial and I am easing into socializing with no problem.  Ale and I order a delicious local red wine, which goes well with my salad of arugula, goat cheese, dried tomatoes, and croutons accompanied by impeccable homemade bread and dark green, virgin olive oil.  The conversation is warm and witty and once we’re sated, we’re on the road again.

We arrive in the Valle Calchaqui, which was conquered by the Spanish invading northeast Argentina in 1536.  Cachi is a beautiful pueblo, situated around a tree-filled park with wide benches, cafes, a small church made of stucco with a cordone wood ceiling.  There is the Archeological museum along with other sites, but I am happy to rest in the sun with the dry heat toasting my skin, penetrating my bones and dusting my hair.   We stay only an hour before turning back towards Salta.  I chew on coca leaves listening to Argentine Samba music as we begin our journey back with the sun setting and a great sense of peace.

Back at the San Jorge, its beyond cold now and I go to sleep under mounds of blankets with all my clothes on.  I like this cowboy feeling, and it’s so dry that one feels clean.  My roommate is leaving for Bolivia in a half hour, so in the end I have the room to myself.  The last thing I see before my eyes close are my dusty boots by the bedside, commemorating my trip and voyages to come.

Day 3
Riding in the front on the bus on the top level, I’ve got legroom and an unobstructed view.  We leave at 7:15 with the site of farmland running to the base of the sloping green mountains.  We make our way slowly behind creeping camions, but there is no rush to anywhere. 

As we cross the border between the province of Salta and Jujuy, the sign says, “Portico Marvelloso de la Patria ” or marvelous door of the motherland.  We ride through Yala with a pair of condors floating in the near distance.  Gaining height in the dusty mountains, it is indeed slow going and I feel the altitude.  Fortunately I have coca leaves in my pocket, which are essential in these parts.

It is a wonderful life, the sense of rising into these mountains, free as these condors and with not too much in my head. I’m riding into each adventure as it comes, feeling present, with a magisterial landscape up close and personal:  flowing, moving, non-static waves of mountain landscape, seemingly indestructible and eternal. 

We pass through Purmamarca where I will stop later in the trip, as well as Tilcara, which will be next after Humahuaca.  I’m aware that I will be backtracking, but that was how the hostel bookings went, and so it is.  And now an amazing and unexpected landmark:  a sign that says “Tropic of Capricorn!”  Can it be?

I arrive in Humahuaca and it seems that I’ve been magically guided, as the Hostel El Sol is inviting and rustic.  My bed upstairs is in a beautiful light-filled space, which I later will share with a French guy, but mostly I am alone here.  The bed is firm, the blankets are warm, and the place is spotless.  The common area is filled with folk music and warm vibes as well as the welcoming energy of Ramon, the owner.

Walking down the hill and across the bridge, I arrive at the center and find myself on Calle Buenos Aires 278: Artesenas Sasakuy.  This is a cooperative of artists who study and create hand-dyed woven items, jewelry, paintings, clothing, and more.  There are old regional rugs and throws, and many local artifacts. I’m shown around by a weaver and instructor who tells me about how the dyes are made (from plants) and how a woman’s life is woven into her shawl:  emblems of family, work, locale, deaths and births, until all her life’s events eventually fills the formerly black material.  He speaks about the local people’s concept of death and how it represents transformation and is considered a part of a continuing cycle, rather than something absolute.  He speaks about the concept of abundance:  that rather than money or possessions, to the people of the northern desert climes, abundance is water, whether in the form of rain or tears.  Water is life.  Later I meet his wife, a folk dance teacher and dancer and we speak about movement and I promise I will take her class the next day.

Lunch is at a simple off-the-beaten track hole in the wall where I drink rather bad house wine and wait for a vegetable stew.  The old waiters, peeling walls, and neon bulbs make me happy.  There are no tourists in sight.  I am basking in the grace of the people around me and am so grateful to be traveling alone, especially in places filled with heart, where the people are solid, connected, grounded to their terrain and customs. This palpable sense of earth-connectedness fits me, this roaming and taking what comes.  I so understand the meaning of abundance, real abundance: water, authenticity, simplicity, and soul.

It is cold inside these buildings, which serves for summer temperatures, but not for now.  Still, the sun warms all outside and I walk up the many steps to an important Humahuacan monument next to the center square.

On the way down I meet two artisans, one from Chile and one from Bolivia, who are selling macramé and copper jewelry.  I buy a necklace, so delicate with a palpable movement woven into its design.  Both artists are in their mid-20s, with a young child each.  They both speak of family and I note the great sense of belongingness among these people.  Loved ones are never far away.

That evening I go to Tantanankuy with Ana, a Portuguese girl who is staying in the hostel.  We walk up and up towards this cultural center created by the musician, Jaime Torres as I have an introduction to his daughter from a mutual friend.  As we stroll, a young guy on a bicycle stops to chat and invites us to his home to share a maté.  I am curious to see how he lives, so we follow him up through an alley into an unadorned cinder block structure where his two roommates lounge under blankets.  Artisans, they are young, gracious gentlemen proud to have us there, offering us tea. 

The Peña at Tantanankuy is lovely with two musicians, one playing a wooden flute and the other guitar, singing beautiful sambas and chacareras.  I eat a deliciously fresh caprese with goat cheese and meet Claudia Torres who invites me back the next day to meet her young folk dance students.  Ana and I stay for several hours, warmed by the nearby wood stove, and then descend to the town and back up to our hostel, inhaling the crystalline air as we gaze try to catch the dripping stars.

Day Four
There is no rush to do anything.  I awaken and lazily do some chores, washing clothes and putting them on the line, eating breakfast, and chatting with Ramon and his daughter Sol as well as some French travelers who had just arrived.  

I spend the day resting in the sun, going to the market to buy bananas and dried apples and a large shopping bag that the local grannies use.  I buy several bags of herbs for Pachamama ceremonies in August to share with friends at home as well as ointments and unguents from Peru, Bolivia: fat of the viper, the iguana, the mule, and more.   

Back on the plaza steps, watching the world go by.  There were great crowds in the square by the church at noon, all gathered to see the automated wooden monk emerge from on high to raise his forearm and bless the masses below, cross raised in other hand.  Ave Maria played. It was a Fellini moment, and then the figure receded into the church once again.

I sit in the sun with a beautiful artisan selling copper jewelry (a “noble” metal) and buy a ring that embraces a diamond shaped amethyst along with a wide Grecian style bracelet to soothe my sometime computer-wrist pain.  These pieces look commanding on my hand, as a ruling queen would have it.

At once, a beautiful young girl comes running to me from across the plaza.  She is the partner of the Chilean from whom I bought the necklace yesterday.  Seeing me from a distance, they want me to have the appropriately macraméd rope from which to hang the piece, rather than the leather thong they gave me.  This, a perfect example of how the people here view their work and life.  It wasn’t just a sale they made.  We made an exchange for a personal and precious creation that deserved its best setting and I was touched by this care.  The artist also wanted to look at her piece for the last time, so proud of her work and the preciousness of her labor. 

I go back to the artisans at Sasakuy to buy an old rug that I’d fallen in love with for its subtle colors and soft weave.  Then off to lunch for a quinoa risotto and a salad, needing to eat this staple, healthful grain that commonly shows up in the cuisine. 

The early evening takes me back to Tantanankuy where Claudia and I have tea and wait for the village children to arrive for their folk dance class.  Claudia teaches these kids for free, sometimes having them stay the night for a pajama party where they cook, sing, and dance.  She is a real Pachamama, giving these children a place to go where they may not have one, as well as a purpose and a passion.

The kids arrive, the beautiful, fresh lot of them, all chat and laughter and one lovely girl makes up a copla for me, a traditional Argentine song pattern with original lyrics.  I take the class with them, everyone giggling all the way through.  I’m smiling from ear to ear and we all stay on for tea and cookies until it is dark and the kids must go.  Claudia shows me videos of some of the traditional festivals from the north: Semana Santa and Dia de los Muertos where the men dress as skeletons and the women as life itself.  The traditions here are strong and continue through time. 

From here I go to Mariela’s folk dancing class back at Sasakuy where we dance Chacarera, Argentine Samba, and Saya from Bolivia. Her husband serves us a strong, sweet, warming liqueur and we dance like banshees amongst the art on the walls.  Walking home under the dangling stars, all quiet and peaceful.  Back in my bed, with the room to myself, I fall into a deep night of dreams.

Day 5
I’m on the bus watching the immense scenery go by.  The astounding power and immobility of the mountains once again renders me speechless.

Once in Tilcara, I land at El Albahaca, another welcoming hostel run by Dani and Delia where I share a room with three girls who will return tonight.  

In the main plaza I eat a sizzling tortilla, filled with cheese and veggies, sitting on a bench with a little dog as my companion.  Tilcara is lovely, filled with tourists and shops that cater to them, but with taste and a sense of northern Argentine downplay.  There are no harsh noises, no garish moments to jar one out of mountain reverie.  It is easy to walk around, to feel relaxed, to take in the mood. 

Up and up beyond my hostel lies the ancient civilization of Pulcará.  These are the ruins of a pre-Incan community that predates the Spanish invasion.  I enter and walk the winding path through the cordones and piles of rectangular and square stones that comprise the walls and homes, stones that mirror the shades of the mountains in pale green, mauve, beige, and gray.   

I am high up overlooking the valley below, the mountains rising sharp around me. The sensation of this other world, homes expanding and diminishing in size as a family ebbed and flowed, silent hearths and alters, give the place a silent magic and power.

I walk into dark chambers to emerge into blazing sunlight where the outdoor corrals and cooking areas lie.  Feeling at one with the slate, dry brush, desert floor, and the crisp air filling my lungs, it is early and I am alone in this vast, sacred place.  It is like being alone in Macchu Pichu, which is nearly impossible and its not until I leave that the tourist buses begun to line up.

A wonderful café lies at the foot of Pulcará’s entrance.  Sofas and deep cushioned chairs are covered in old rugs that also lie on the ground outside and the floor inside.  Artifacts and artisanal offerings along with wonderful paintings abound.  Who is this painter?   

I have a tea and inquire and at once a taxi appears and I am whisked away over the stony roadway, across the dry riverbed, and through a mountain pass to a wooded world.  I walk a short path and into the root and clutter of the artist, Emilio Haro Gallo, who seems to be a legend in these parts, as I will see his paintings over and over again wherever I go.

He is an adorable gnome, with a constant chunk of coca leaves and ash rock protruding in a round ball on the inside of his cheek.  This is a recurring theme with his painted characters, which all look like semi-robust, sad-eyed, earth-grounded livers of life.  Pachamamas, devils, subway riders, bus drivers, wine makers, musicians, and more clutter every painting, and there seem to be hundreds piled and stacked in every which way.  Chatting away, I make a pile of choices, landing on a serious Pachamama with a fish.  Emilio and I hang out and I am happy as I always am when connecting with artists.  He walks me down a back path past the old, unused rail tracks where I can then easily cross the bridge back to the village.  On the way I realize that I really want the painting of the celebrating winemakers, and that is the one he eventually delivers. 

Now I sit having a cup of tea with three women who have come back from a march for the “disparacedos”, the missing people who “disappeared” during the Argentine Military takeover in the 70’s.  This is an event that can never be forgotten, where the repercussions linger as many families have suffered the losses of fathers, mothers, husbands, wives, uncles, aunts, friends.  There has been a huge turnout and these diligent mourners and protesters are finally getting response from the courts, as cases are being heard and resolved with monetary compensation.  They have waited over 35 years for retribution and now at last something is being done, if not the least, the public recognition of a government gone wildly bad.

In the evening I take myself to a highly recommended restaurant just a few hundred meters from the hostel.  With its deep orange interior, low couches and tables, and walls full of beautiful artifacts I have a stupendous meal of cubed llama cooked in dark beer with small baked Andean potatoes and a Quilmes beer.  My dinner mate, a small black cat, sits daintily upright on the floor beside me waiting for my offerings.   After dinner I take a long walk in the cold night, wondering at the stars and the enormity of life and its possibilities.  Energized by the altitude, oxygen, and my thoughts, it was not a night for sleep.

Day 6
Just a short ride from Tilcara, I decide to spend a few hours rather than more time in Purmamarca as I am so tired.  Sitting in a café by the central plaza, as usual, I watch artisans setting up and selling a million colorful handmade wares.   

Walking around, up and up I discover the private home, Azul Andina.  It is a mix of art nouveau and Andean basics: a cane roof woven with pampas-like thatching, Gaudi-shaped windows, and a dark green/blue painted exterior. A magical anomalous home with a ravishing view.

Here in Purmamarca is the “Cerro de Siete Colores”, or the hill of seven colors. The hill is really a series of mountains that rise in waves of undulating striations in mauve, green, beige, grey, and colors in between.  Standing on top of an opposing hill, I take the obligatory photos and then headed back to Tilcara, exhausted. 

Back in Tilcara I make a brief appearance in the archeological museum, which contains all the usual suspects: pottery, tools and the description of life way back when before the Spaniards came to upset the balance.  It is a good view of the region’s history, well exhibited in a lovely building. but it was all I could do to glance around and then walk slowly back to my café at the base of Pulcará to spend a few hours with a cup of tea over a deep discussion with a newly made friend.

That evening I am told to arrive very early for a seat at the popular Peña de Carlitos, so I planted myself two hours early with a book and a picada of fresh goat’s cheese.  Opposite me hangs a painting by the ubiquitous Emilo, this time a dreamy man with a devil’s mask on his shoulder.  The hours pass and I order a warming stew of corn and other vegetables including sweetish Andean potatoes along with fragrant herbs and grated cheese. By the time the first musician appears I am ready for horizontality, but I stay a bit longer to hear his deep and expressive voice singing odes to nearby towns in the North. Reluctantly I leave and weave my path towards bed.

Day 7